fb0252Community MemberMarch 28, 2022 at 8:21 pm
Sequence of events, SEE PROBLEM IN CAPS BELOW:
-had car battery tested at Auto Zone–battery fine but unspecified charging system problem
–130,00 miles on car decided to replace alternator.
–alternator tested at good at Auto Zone
–car ran fine–no problems with old alternator.
–installed new alternator, started engine, runs fine but battery light on in instrument panel
–need car so reinstalled old alternator. started car–same battery light.
–thinking–maybe alternator bolts not tight enough.
–ROOKIE ERROR–turned off car but did not disconnect battery. As was tightening bolts wrench touches manifold and big spark.
–back into car–now CRANKS BUT NO START OR IGNITION, NO POWER WINDOWS, DOOR LOCKS, INTERIOR LIGHT, RADIO, DAYS MILEAGE FAILS TO SHOW, DASH LIGHTS FAILS TO COME ON, HEADLIGHTS DO WORK. BELIEVE FUEL PUMP IS GOOD AS ALL SYSTEMS WERE WORKING BEFORE MY ERROR (above). Believing there is engine spark because if let car sit, engine will try to start for a split second before it dies.
–following fuse problems–Q1 is whether I killed the alternator (above)and the dead alternator is causing these multiple problems. Q2 were do I begin this diagnosis with these many problems???
Interior below dash fuse box with ignition on:
abs, meter and fuel pump relay fuse–nothing on the test light. with cranking ignition very weak light on the test light for these 3 fuses.
Middle fuses all good–including injector, ECM and fuel pump relay fuses (one fuel pump relay fuse of the two thus is good.
Top row–only 3 fuses work, all rest have weak test light.
Engine fuse box all fuses work one row when ignition is on and the other row when ignition is off.
Have yet to test any relays.
Any thoughts were to begin on this diagnosis.
Year: 2006MSelleenAdministratorMarch 30, 2022 at 9:45 pm
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