MSelleen
Your Replies
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November 2, 2021 at 11:43 pm
It could be a faulty temperature control actuator on the driver side or a broken blend door. I’m not sure if your car has several temperature sensors, if it has – it could be a faulty temp sensor. However, the easiest way is to read the trouble codes and try to see if the actuators are moving when selecting temperature.
November 7, 2021 at 8:24 pmHello. The ball joints should not affect any warning light so that’s most likely not the issue. A common problem with these cars is a bad brake light switch, especially if you see the light come on when you press the brake pedal. It can however be a broken ABS sensor or many other possibilities, so reading the codes is almost a must.
I think you maybe should try at another place to read the codes with another scanner, because usually when the warning light comes on, there will be a trouble code stored for a long time in the ABS control module. Need to use a code reader compatible with reading the ABS control module also, and not just the engine control module.
November 12, 2021 at 8:48 pmNovember 16, 2021 at 12:23 amNovember 23, 2021 at 4:47 pmNovember 23, 2021 at 4:48 pmNovember 26, 2021 at 2:42 pmIf the blower fan is bad, it can blow both the resistor and sometimes even the fuse depending on the car model. Therefore, in my ears it sounds like the blower fan first blew the resistor and probably the fuse. In this case, it would be required to replace the blower fan + resistor + fuse. However, more in-depth troubleshooting is preferred.
November 29, 2021 at 10:20 pmThe actuators on your car models should be powered by vacuum if I remember right. Therefore it could be a vacuum leak from the hoses to the actuator. Another possible cause is the switch itself or something wrong with the actuator flap. I would check the vacuum hose for any leaks on the vacuum system.
December 2, 2021 at 9:31 pmThere could have been bad connection between the jumper cables and therefore you heard the clicking sound. If you let the cables sit for a while, it could have charged your battery enough to start your car though.
It could both be a bad battery, a bad alternator charging the battery or something that drained your battery. Check this for more information: https://mechanicbase.com/electric/drained-car-battery/
December 3, 2021 at 9:18 pmHello. First I assume you checked the basic things like ensuring you use the right motor oil type, newly made oil change and have a good oil level.
It could be a faulty actuator, but from what I can find it seems quite mechanical so would double check all other things first.
Would rather test the solenoid with a scanner to see if it’s opening and closing like it should
I found a service bulletin related to the issue, but it seems that only cars from 2005 and above are affected, anyways here it is if it could help somehow:
https://f01.justanswer.com/clmcr8/a67df03d-95db-4e54-bd3e-4776912ac32d_PCMupdate.pdfDecember 8, 2021 at 8:43 pmA common issue several Volkswagen engines had when I was working with these cars a long time ago was bad fuel injectors together with the turbo boost. Fuel does also cool down the pistons and chambers and if it’s running lean on one cylinder it will cause very high heat inside the chamber.
This can cause the temp in the cylinder to reach a very high temperature and it can cause the air-fuel mixture to self-ignite and you will get detonations.
I’m not 100% sure your exact engine type is affected by this, but I would definitely make a flow-test on the injectors before installing new pistons. I’m pretty sure there is a service bulletin for this somewhere also.
December 9, 2021 at 10:00 pmDecember 13, 2021 at 10:20 pmSo all codes tell there is a problem on bank 2 – the side with cylinder 2-4-6. Either it is a problem with the O2 sensor giving a false alarm of lean mixture, or the mixture is lean for real. In this case, I strongly believe you need to replace O2 sensor 1 on bank 2. If you have a little experience you can also test the sensor to be 100% sure it’s bad, but it requires some diagnostic skills!
December 17, 2021 at 9:30 pmCheck again so the mechanic tightened the wheel nuts properly, difficult to say from a video but it definitely sounds like that!! If not that, it really sounds like the noise is following with the wheel speed, so a look at the CV joint would be the first thing to check as you said. Raise the wheel up and spin the wheel and feel if the CV joints feel tight both on the left and right sides.
